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Matsusaka beef: Japan's heifer-only Wagyu, and how it compares

InfoBy Matthew Condon, co-founder · Updated

The short answer: Matsusaka beef (Matsusaka-gyu) is Japanese Black heifers that have never calved, brought into the Matsusaka area of Mie prefecture by 12 months of age and fattened there for the longest and final part of their lives. Its top tier, Tokusan Matsusaka, is fattened 900 days or more. The brand sets no grade minimum, and very little is exported.

What is Matsusaka beef?

Matsusaka beef, or Matsusaka-gyu (松阪牛), is a regional brand of Japanese Black beef from the area around Matsusaka in Mie prefecture. Its rules [1][3]:

RuleMatsusaka beef
Breed and sexJapanese Black heifers that have never calved
WhereBrought into the Matsusaka production area by 12 months of age, and fattened there longest and last
TrackingRegistered in the brand's own identification system
GradeNo minimum

The heifer-only rule sets it apart: most Wagyu brands, including Kobe, accept steers too. In fiscal 2014, about 7,000 Matsusaka cattle were shipped [2].

What is Tokusan Matsusaka beef?

The brand's top tier. Tokusan (特産) Matsusaka heifers are born in Hyogo, brought to the Matsusaka area by 12 months old, and fattened there for 900 days or more [2]. It's the only part of Matsusaka beef registered as a Geographical Indication, and it's very small: 239 head in fiscal 2014 [2]. Its specification also recommends domestic rice straw for roughage [2], one of the few Wagyu brand rules that touches where the feed comes from.

The area's annual cattle show has run since 1949, and in 2002 its champion sold for ¥50 million [2].

How traceable is Matsusaka beef?

More than most brands. Each animal is registered in Matsusaka's own system, and its certificate and seal show the 10-digit ID and the carcass grade [1]. You can look up a sealed animal in the brand's database [4], and any Japanese animal in the national registry [7].

What a buyer usually won't learn is the farmer. Some sellers make a point of passing it on, but most of the time it's lost somewhere between the farm and the plate. Japan's national registry shows a keeper's name only with the keeper's consent [6], and the brand doesn't publish the farm's feed or housing. Beer and massage are a good example: Mie's tourism association says some farms give beer and brush their cattle [1], but the brand doesn't require either, and the label won't tell you whether your steak's farm did.

Can you buy Matsusaka beef in the US?

Rarely. Very little is exported, and no meat plant in Mie prefecture appears on Japan's list of plants approved for export to the US [5]. If you see Matsusaka beef in the US, ask for the 10-digit ID and the Matsusaka certificate, and check them. How to tell if Wagyu is real shows how.

How does Matsusaka beef compare with Peak Wagyu?

Both are Japanese Black, raised in Japan and graded by the Japan Meat Grading Association. Matsusaka guarantees the area and the animal's sex; we guarantee the farm and the cow.

Matsusaka beefPeak Wagyu
AnimalHeifer that has never calved [1]Takemitsu-chan, a Japanese Black female
WhereAny farm in the Matsusaka area [1]Takeda Farm, Asahikawa, Hokkaido
GradeNo minimum [1]A4, BMS 6
The animal10-digit ID and Matsusaka certificate [1]ID 1493019197, grading certificate published
The farmNot part of the brand; rarely namedNamed, and we've visited
FeedNot set, except Tokusan's rice straw [2]About half Hokkaido-grown hay, plus oats and rice bran from Asahikawa mochi barley
WelfareNot set by the brandSpacious barn, every cow named, no growth hormones, no beer or massage, sent off before maximum weight
In the USRare [5]Ships nationwide, frozen

Ellie Takeda raises a small herd at the foot of the Daisetsuzan mountains, and she raises each cow for comfort rather than maximum weight. Takemitsu-chan graded A4, BMS 6, above the ceiling of USDA Prime, with enough beef flavor that a whole steak doesn't eat like pure fat. What makes Peak Wagyu special? has her story.

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Frequently asked questions

What makes Matsusaka beef different?

Every Matsusaka animal is a Japanese Black heifer that has never calved. Most Wagyu brands accept steers too. The cattle must enter the Matsusaka area by 12 months of age and are tracked by the brand's own identification system as well as Japan's national one.

What grade is Matsusaka beef?

The brand has no grade minimum, so the grade varies by animal. The Matsusaka certificate and seal state each carcass's actual grade, such as A4 or A5, alongside its 10-digit ID.

What is Tokusan Matsusaka beef?

Tokusan (特産) Matsusaka is the brand's top tier and a registered Geographical Indication. The heifers are born in Hyogo, brought to the Matsusaka area by 12 months old, and fattened there for 900 days or more. In fiscal 2014, 239 of about 7,000 Matsusaka cattle shipped were Tokusan.

Can you buy Matsusaka beef in the US?

Rarely. Very little Matsusaka beef is exported, and no meat plant in Mie prefecture is on Japan's list of plants approved for export to the US. If you see it in the US, ask for the 10-digit ID and the Matsusaka certificate.

Do Matsusaka cows drink beer?

It isn't a brand rule. Mie's tourism association says some farms give beer to stimulate appetite and brush or massage their cattle. The brand's definition covers the animal, the area and the traceability system, not those practices.

Sources

  1. Mie Prefecture Tourism Federation, Matsusaka beef
  2. Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MAFF), GI register No. 25, "特産松阪牛 (Tokusan Matsusaka-ushi)" (2017)
  3. Japan Patent Office, regional collective trademark 松阪牛 (No. 5022671)
  4. Matsusaka beef individual identification lookup
  5. MAFF, meat plants approved for export to the United States (September 2026)
  6. MAFF, sample screen and disclosure rules for the cattle traceability lookup
  7. National Livestock Breeding Center, individual cattle identification lookup

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Asahi-dake, the tallest mountain in Hokkaido, which sits behind Takeda farm to the east.